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MEASURING FINISHED WIDTH & FINISHED LENGTH
 
Please click on the links below to read more detailed information:



COMMON PROBLEMS TO LOOK FOR BEFORE MEASURING
  • Floor and ceilings are not parallel.
  • Windows that is not square with floor or ceiling.
  • Wavy walls or ceilings.
  • Proper clearance between treatments so that they hang properly.
  • Obstruction which may be in the way of the window treatments, such as:
Window sills Door knobs Heating ducts
Window cranks Alarm systems Cold air returns
Electrical outlets Any fixed which cannot be moved Radiators
Air Conditioners Window frames Doors which open into the room
Heating Outlets Windows which open into the room Lighting fixtures
Floor board heating units Electrical switches Pictures hanging on the wall

For accuracy in measurement, your basic tool should be a steel "pull-out" tape (fabric tape is not recommended). These come in various lengths, but 20-foot size will be sufficient for most work. Get the type with the locking feature, which is very convenient when you are measuring in a tight corner or a spot which is dimly lit.
 
NOTE: WRITE DOWN ALL MEASUREMENTS AS YOU TAKE THEM. ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS.
  • Even if they appear to be the same size, measure ALL windows you intend to dress. Assuming windows are all the same size is the most common mistake.
  • Note all measurements in inches, not feet.


 
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MEASURING FOR DRAPERIES AND SHEERS WHEN THERE IS EXISTING HARDWARE
 
When hardware already exists you need only to complete these easy steps:
 
A) MEASURING FOR FINISHED WIDTH
 
FINISHED WIDTH = Face width + corner returns (each side)(if any)
 
For Example: Face width = 60"
Corner returns = 2"
So, Finished width = 60" + 2" + 2" = 64"

To determine the actual size of any drapery/sheer required, the finished width must be calculated.
 
FACE WIDTH - Measure across the front of the installed rod from tip to tip, or bracket to bracket.
 
CORNER RETURNS OR ' RETURNS' are the projections distance from the wall into the room to the rod face (Note: In product specifications page, please enter the corner return size in inches for each corner. example: For 4" corner return on each side, please select 4" in the 'Corner Return' value). Returns hide the hardware showing on the two sides. It also gives a proper finished look to the treatment as well as blocks the light coming in the room from the sides.
 
The guidelines below are rod standards for projections (corner returns).
 
I-Beam 2" at each end
Single Traverse 4" at each end
Double Traverse 6" at each end
Triple Traverse 8" at each end

A center draw traverse rod with a 4" projection requires two corner returns of 4" each side.
 
If Face width or Bracket-to-Bracket size is 134", then finished width is 142"
Calculation: 134" + 4" + 4" = 142".
Whenever a multiple treatment is used. For Ex: sheers then drapes and then valance on top, the returns will exceed by 2" to 3" more each time. Generally return should be ½" more than the rod projection. Thus a 3 ½" rod projection requires a 4" return.
 
NOTE: Even when you have existing hardware, please inform customer service what kind of hardware you are planning to use. Workroom/manufacturer will have to make certain provisions to your finished width on the basis of the hardware.
 
DRAPERY PAIR OR DRAPERY PANEL: A 'panel' can be one-way draw and opens from one side or it can also be stationary. A 'pair' indicates that it will be two pieces. It can be as two-way draw and will open in the middle or it can be stationary and tied back on each sides with tiebacks or tassels.
 
B) MEASURING FOR FINISHED LENGTH - Measure the distance from the top of the rod to the bottom length of where you would like the drape/sheer to end. See below for bottom length stopping points.
 
NOTE: Because often the floor, ceiling, wall windows are not in proper level, even in the best of the homes, be sure to take measurements in three different places for all types of length/height options and use the smallest measurement for length / height.
 
  • Floor length draperies/sheers, measure from top of the rod to ½ inch above the floor.
  • Apron length draperies/sheers, measure from top of the rod to 2-1/2" to 4" below the apron of the window or the length desired.
  • Sill length draperies/sheers, measure from the top of the rod to ½" above the windowsill. (Note: When using a sill length drapery/sheer, a light streak is always present between the sill top and the drapery/sheer bottom).

This measurement is the Finished drapery/sheer Length where I-Beam or traverse rods are used. If a decorative rod is in place with rings, then the finished length is generally from the pinhole in the ring to the desired length.
 
NOTE: Even when you have existing hardware, its always-good idea to inform the customer service about the hardware you have, so workroom can make necessary adjustments.
 
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MEASURING FOR FINISHED WIDTH WHEN THERE IS NO EXISTING HARDWARE
 
FINISHED WIDTH - FACE WIDTH + RETURNS
 
FACE WIDTH: When planning a drapery/sheer treatment, you need to determine the face width rod size. This includes the window area to cover PLUS the extensions on either side of the window. The extensions (space on the wall from the glass on the window moulding to the end of the rod) are necessary so that draperies/sheer will not interfere with light/view and ventilation from windows. The extensions are commonly called the stacking area.( When you open the drapes or the sheers)
 
This is called FACE WIDTH or the rod BRACKET TO BRACKET size.
 
To determine approximately how much stacking space will be required, multiply the "factor" (shown below) times the width of the glass area.
  • Use 20% factor for all Sheer fabrics. OR
  • Use 25% for all heavier Sheer fabrics and drapery fabrics.

Multiply the window opening by 20% or 25%. For pair of draperies/sheers or one-way drapery/sheers, the resulting measurement is doubled and added to the window opening width. The lighter the fabric, the less area is required for stacking.
 
NOTE: If the drapery/sheer treatment comes within 12 inches of the adjoining walls, a wall-to-wall treatment is recommended. Corner returns are not required for wall-to-wall treatments.
 
Example:
LIGHT SHEER FABRIC (Factor is 20%, and the window opening is 96")
 

 
96" X 20% = 19.2" or 19" (rounded off).
This amount is added to both sides of the opening to determine rod size. i.e.: 96" + 19" + 19" = 134" FACE WIDTH OR BRACKET TO BRACKET SIZE. One can always add extra inches to make the drapery width wider. It's the personal liking. Same way one can make the drapery width less and let the drapes / sheers stack on the window opening when opened.
 
CORNER RETURNS OR ' RETURNS' are the projections distance from the wall into the room to the rod face (Note: In product specifications page, please enter the corner return size in inches for each corner. example: For 4" corner return on each side, please select 4" in the 'Corner Return' value). Returns hide the hardware showing on the two sides. It also gives a proper finished look to the treatment as well as blocks the light coming in the room from the sides.
 
The guidelines below are rod standards for projections (corner returns).
 
I-Beam 2" at each end
Single Traverse 4" at each end
Double Traverse 6" at each end
Triple Traverse 8" at each end

A center draw traverse rod with a 4" projection requires two corner returns of 4" each side.
 
FINISHED WIDTH - FACE WIDTH + RETURNS
 
If Face width or Bracket-to-Bracket size is 134", AND RETURN ON EACH SIDE IS 4".
Then FINISHED WIDTH is 134" + 4" + 4" = 142".
Whenever a multiple treatment is used. For Ex: sheers then drapes and then valance on top, the returns will exceed by 2" to 3" more each time. Generally return should be ½" more than the rod projection. Thus a 3 ½" rod projection requires a 4" return.
 
NOTE: Even when you have existing hardware, please inform customer service what kind of hardware you are planning to use. Workroom/manufacturer will have to make certain provisions to your finished width on the basis of the hardware.
 
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MEASURING FOR FINISHED LENGTH WHEN THERE IS NO EXISTING HARDWARE
 
There are 4 basic drapery lengths:
  • Floor length
  • Apron length
  • Sill length
  • Floor-to-ceiling length

  • MEASURING FOR FLOOR-LENGTH DRAPERIES
     
    DETERMINE LENGTH - Because the floor, wall, ceiling, windows are not in proper level, even in the best of homes, be sure to take your measurements in three different places. Do these measurements for all the height/length options.
     
    For the best drapery effect and prevention of sunlight appearing above top of drapery/sheer, place the drapery rod at least 3" above the frame. You'll also conceal the drapery heading and traverse rod from the outside.
     
    If the distance from the lintel to the ceiling is less than 8", it is recommended to extend the drapery treatment to the ceiling. All rods should be planned for and installed the same distance from the ceiling in the same room.
     
    If carpet installation is planned, you need a sample of the carpet and cushion being used to measure the combined height. Subtract this measurement above to determine accurate drapery length. If new carpet is to be installed, always allow for the difference in thickness between the old and the new.
     
    NOTE: If decorative rod is being used then the finished length will be from the pinhole in the ring to the desire length.
     
    CEILING TO FLOOR LENGTH PLACEMENT = Take the shortest measurement of the three ceiling to floor measurements and deduct ½".
     
    MEASURING FOR APRON LENGTH
    For sash windows: Measure from at least 3" above the window frame* (so hardware, pins and heading openings will not show from outside) to a point at least 2-1/2" to 4" below the bottom of the apron.
     
    MEASURING FOR SILL LENGTH
    Wherever possible, measure 3" above the window frame* so the hardware, pins, and heading will not show from the outside. From this point, measure down to the top of the windowsill. Deduct 1/4" for clearance. When using sill length drapery/sheer, a light streak is always present between the sill top and the drapery/sheer bottom.
     
    * NOTE: If there is no frame, make sure the rod is at least 4" above the glass.
     
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